160 Years Young: Creating Smiles Since 1862

If there’s one woman who knows a thing or two about jewellery, it’s Harriet Samuel. Back in 1862, she introduced style to make you smile as we know and love it today. So, to celebrate our birthday, we take a scroll down memory lane, tracing 160 years of the top jewellery trends – decade by decade.

9 OCTOBER 2022 - ELLEN MADDEN | JEWELLERY WRITER

1860 - The Age-Old Era Of The Zodiac

Since the dawn of time people have looked to the stars for answers to the big questions. The purpose of life? Who will I be married to in 3 years? And something along the lines of corset and petticoat? Used to make sense of a complicated world, astrology has been used to guide people through life, with its influence working its magic in the world of jewellery. From star sign pendants to constellation necklaces – it seems there is a zodiac inspired piece for everyone and an answer to every question, big or small.

1870 - The Spiritual Seventies

In what was known as the Grand Victorian Era, the decade of the 1870s saw jewellery that was decadent, rare and mainly worn by royals. Precious stones and crystals with rich colours embellished crowns, necklaces, rings and brooches. The colours of the crystals were incredibly deep – tones of amethyst purple, rich greens and blue crystals the colour of the sky. Even deeper was their supposed healing powers. Rose quartz for its balance of health, malachite for its healing properties (believed to heal sickness) – the list goes on. Crystals are just as trendy today for their meaning and healing properties. And are still used as the centrepiece in jewellery – but luckily, not just available to the royals.

1880 - The Signature Signet

Worn by the male of the family, signet rings were used to sign legal documents on behalf of his family. In the late 19th century (too long ago) the rings became less of a legal signature and more of a fashion statement. Mega flashy and more fun embellishments were added. We’re talking: emerald green gems. Rubies cut into perfect squares. And decorative gold bands holding diamonds in place. Now, there are no rules when it comes to signet rings. No gender and not used as a symbol of (olden day) wealth. Just plain, simple fashion. WE’RE SOLD.

1890 - Studs From Day To Night

Cast your mind back... (don’t worry we weren’t there either). Think puffy sleeves, floor-length dresses and fancy up-dos. Known as the aesthetic period, there was a focus on beautiful things. And with that, came, a new era of jewellery. During the day, pearl studs were the go-to. At night, they switched to twinkling diamonds – for an added touch of glamour. It’s safe to say studs have never gone out of fashion. In 2022, they’re an ear stack staple (more on this later). A sparkly statement. And an everyday essential. The difference between then and now? Any gender can don a stud, at any time of the day. And they always add a touch of glamour.

1900 - The Lock of Love

Adored and loved for decades, lockets had a revival at the start of the 20th century. It became popular as a mourning item. So when someone passed, they’d put a piece of hair (kind of odd) or a photo of their loved one into the locket. PS - photos were a thing back then. We did double-check. Putting hair inside a locket might not be our cup of tea but adding photos is certainly a sweet gesture. You can find lockets in all shapes and sizes, ones to fit photos of your whole family or maybe just a single shot of someone special. The beauty of a locket? The choice is all yours

1910 - Diamonds Were (And Still Are) Everyone's Best Friend

Once upon a time, way back in 1912, diamond rings weren’t that common. They were worn by the richest of the rich and dreamt of BY ALL. Of course, diamond rings (specifically designed for the big day) quickly became a lusted after item. By the end of the decade, diamond rings were on the rise. Trend alert: diamond rings for proposals. Has anything really changed?

1920 - Party With Pearls The '20s Way

The roaring ‘20s. An era of celebrating people and movements: think art deco, art nouveau and Great Gatsby type parties (sadly no Leonardo DiCaprio). The artistic movement, and the parties, had a lot of influence on fashion and jewellery. Jewellery from this era is easy to spot – symmetrical, ornate and geometric in its design. We simply can’t think of the ‘20s without thinking of the iconic pearl necklaces. Worn long and doubled up, they are the piece of the decade. Today, the world is your oyster – wear your pearls however you’d like to. Our favourite way? Attached to a chunky, chain necklace. Preferably in gold.

1930 - The Silver Lining Of Black And White TV

You won’t be shocked when we tell you the jewellery trend of the ‘30s. You will be shocked when we tell you why it became a trend. WELL, Movies were still mainly in black and white despite coloured TV being invented. In a bid to get a bit of dazzle to come through the screen, Hollywood movie stars were dressed in anything sparkly, silver and that promised a twinkle. Some may say doused head to toe in it. The ‘30s saw a spike in the sale of silver wear and diamonds. Earrings, necklaces, rings – you name it, it could be found in silver, with lots of razzle dazzle. Has anything changed?

1940 - Charming Charms

The ‘40s saw a resurgence of the charm bracelet. During the second world war, the lucky medallions were brought back home by soldiers to give to their loved ones. These special keepsakes quickly trended and soon charms were the go-to gift to celebrate life's special moments. Birthdays. Anniversaries. Debutante balls. Today, charms are collectable, incredibly sentimental and just like a photo, they speak a thousand words.

1950 - Game, Set, Match

Take us back to the ‘50s. The post-world-war decade: women stayed at home while men went to work, there was a new look of fashion and people had started earning money again (and spending it too). Hollywood continued to inspire the jewellery trends, with celebrities like Grace Kelly and Lucille Belle wearing matching jewellery – think earrings and coordinating pendants. And even though the jewellery look had become more subtle and understated in its design, turning its nose up at rainbow brights. Matching sets were hot. Bold, brightly coloured gems and jewels were not.

1960 - Rainbow Brights

What do you think of when we mention the swinging ‘60s? Bold and bright colours? Shift dresses? Space age designs? Or plastic fantastic jewellery? If yes, to any of the above, then you're on the money. It was a time of major change around the globe (and in the world of jewellery). And with that, matching jewellery sets were out and eclectic, OTT jewellery was in. Think high contrast, candy colours and oodles upon oodles of chunkiness. The modern way to mimic ‘60s style? Go bold, and layer on the colour via gemstones. Plus, they're birthstones too, and who doesn't love adding a bit of personalisation to their look?

1970 - Peace And Love

The '70s trend report: incoming. Peace, love and chilled-out vibes. During the anti-war movement, any motif of allegiance to the peace movement was fashionable. We’re talking peace signs strung around your neck, heart-shaped designs and golden flowers decorated with rich hues of sunset orange. To replicate? Sport a heart-shape linked to a necklace, bracelet or a pair of dangly huggies.

1980 - The Golden Rule

Gold jewellery had a major moment in the ‘80s. From long layered necklaces to stacks of bangles and imitation pearls – the ‘80s was the decade of decadence. What was the look? Well, the rockers of the decade went BOLD. Think OTT earrings that started at the ear and finished at the neck. Thick charm necklaces. Chunky studs. And even chunkier chain bangles.

1990 - The Revival Of The Dog Tag

When you think of the ‘90s, you can't help but think of the rise of sub-cultures like grunge, rap and 'anti-fashion'. Each one had its own set of rules and, of course, jewellery. An item that (somehow) transgressed all groups of ‘teenage dirtbags’ was the humble dog tag. You know the one – the military-style pendant that comes attached to a necklace. Now, a staple in every jewellery box, dog tags come in many iterations – from steel to silver. Plus, they're perfect for engraving – so, whatever the meaning, you can say it on a dog tag.

2000 - Queen Carrie Reigns

The ever-iconic, Sex and the City is not only decade-defining but also crucial to any fashion lover's wardrobe – and jewellery box. Who didn’t search nameplate necklaces after seeing Carrie donning hers? The TV series painted a fabulous picture of the era. Jewellery was fun, and daring mainly because it didn’t stick to traditions. Carrie may have told, Aleksander, that it cost like nothing, but it's priceless to the jewellery trends of the noughties. More recently, bought back to life by Love Island's Millie, is there ever going to be an end to this self-indulgent style? We think not.

2010 - T As In Troy?

The birthyear necklace, the nameplate trend or that ICONIC scene when Troy gifted Gabriella a ‘T’ necklace (High School Musical fans, we see you). However, it started, initial necklaces were the coolest thing since sliced bread in 2010. Why? It’s a subtle way of spelling things out. A soft-launch of your new fling. Or a public display of letting people know who you are. As you’re probably aware, they're still just as popular today. Worn by Insta-influencers and celebs around the globe, an initial necklace can be worn solo to make a statement or paired in necklace stacks for a pop of personalisation. Do you need any more convincing? No, didn't think so

2020 - Stacks Of Studs (And The Rest)

The curated ear stack is undoubtedly the trend of this decade. Look no further than stud upon stud (upon a dangly earring in the front lobe and a huggie behind it). We just love this trend and if you don’t already have your ears decked out, we’ve got you. There are thousands of combinations to line your ears with. Our tip? Start big and go small. Place your chunkiest hoop first and go to the smallest from there. Regardless of how many piercings you’ve got, this chic rock ’n’ roll trend flatters everyone's ears. Miley Cyrus is the pro of the ear stack. Her base? An oversized sparkly earring followed by huggie, then stud after stud after stud. If you want to get the look, visit our in-store Perfect Piercing studio and our style experts will hook you up. Ring ring: trend of ‘20s speaking.