FABULOUS FEMALE FOUNDERS: GEMS BEHIND THE JEWELLERY BRANDS

08 MARCH 2022 | EDITOR - H. SAMUEL

This International Women’s Day – a day designed to shine a spotlight on women’s achievements and gender equality – we’re taking a moment to shout out to some of the hard-working, creative, multi-tasking women behind our favourite jewellery brands – including our very own Harriet Samuel (who’s birthday happens to be on the same day, if that’s not female intuition then we don’t know what is).

Over 150 years ago. In a time when women could not vote. Or get an education. Harriet turned the small family watch-making store into a mail-order business, with one goal: to make quality jewellery and watches accessible to everyone. Today, inspired by our own trailblazing female founder, we asked Paola Sasplugas (PDPAOLA), Emmy Scarterfield (Emmy London), Andy Maine (Ania Haie), and business-women-turned-jewellery-designer Jac Jossa what it takes to set up a successful jewellery brand, we find out about the inspirations and challenges along the way, and they have some real-talk for anyone hoping to follow in their footsteps.

The powerhouse behind PDPAOLA

Paola Sasplugas (along with brother, Humbert) is the brains behind PDPAOLA – the inspiring, affordable luxury jewellery brand for ‘women that own their glow’. It’s all about colourful pieces that allow women to express themselves in their own way – a fitting vibe for International Women’s Day and very Paola Sasplugas. From repping your astrological sign to wearing your initials, this just-for-you jewellery is high on the brands design agenda and Paola’s own personal style (she wears her daughter’s initial every day).

Oozing effortless cool (a trait she translates through her jewellery), Paola is not one to let gender hinder, in fact for her it’s about feeling empowered as a person. Her be-bold-enough-to-take-risks attitude mean’s she’s built a business despite stereotypes and based on self-confidence and personal growth – a big part of what breaking the bias means to her. Much like her brand, IWD to Paola is all about empowerment, ‘It’s a reminder of the incredible things that can happen when we support each other.’

One of the first things you need to start a business, is a ‘push to take action’ as Paola describes it. There’s no playbook for starting a brand; in fact, a lot of it is on-the-job training, the key, according to her, is every day leaning. As well as being bold, listening to your intuition and not getting disheartened with the lows.

Ania Haie’s Andy spills the tea

Inspired by the silver artisans in Kathmandu’s Freak Street, Andy launched Ania Haie in 2018 with a view to making catwalk trends accessible to everyone. Her jewellery designs are exactly what women who love fashion want and with the customer as the brand’s ‘biggest influencer’ (including a huge celebrity following), Andy says, being a woman is a competitive advantage when you’re building a company for women.

Women who start their own business aren’t doing it just for more flexibility. This might sound obvious, considering that launching a brand means long hours, tones of pressure, and financial risk, Andy says, the top motivator is achieving your goals – and markedly not work-life balance – especially at the start.

As a mum of two, the constant juggling of home and work life is real, so she knows that flexibility at work is just part of the process (very 2022). Her happy-work-life-happy-work-force mindset breaks the mould. And, from her experience, downtime is the bread-and-butter to success, she says, ‘it’s so important to clear your head, go for a walk or exercise to release the tension and feel-good energy.’ So, go get that cup of tea.

Step into the world of Emmy London

Emmy has her late grandma to thank for her love of jewellery (and obsession with the colour blush). Since playing dress-up with her grandma’s jewels, Emmy’s built a brand that combines her customers love stories with expertise and craftsmanship - Emmy London.

Newsflash: starting a business is hard. You’re going to be told no a lot. It can feel lonely. What’s going to get you through is passion, says Emmy, ‘it requires you to make sacrifices and compromises. But it’s definitely worth it in the end.’ Also, she says, don’t get caught up in what other people are doing. Keep your eyes on your own path, Emmy – who is never scared of a challenge – wasn’t one to let imposter syndrome take over, she says, ‘it can really detract from your focus if you’re trying to do a better version or if you’re worried someone is copying you or catching up with you.’

A brand built by a woman for women, Emmy uses her gender to really get under the skin of her customers: The beautifully delicate and feminine designs are exactly what our fine jewellery dreams are made of. From Art Deco-inspired baguette diamonds to the intricately fancy-cut wedding rings (both Emmys faves), it’s clear she knows exactly what women want. And always one to celebrate women’s achievements, she’d love to see an injection of female energy in the actual making and craftsmanship of jewellery.